Eyelet or embroidery stitching machine.



EYELET OR EMBROIDERY STITGHING MACHINE.

I'PLICATION FILED KAY 26,1903. A 4 SKBETS-SHBET 14 :5 WITNIESSES: V vINVENTOR:

ffM/fi fm/ No. 875,614. PATENTED DEG. 31.1907.

w. N. PARKES.

EYBLET OR EMBROIDERY STITCHING MACHINE.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

APPLICATION FILED HAY 26.1803.

. NVENTOR:

"1W Afir/Qj ATTORNEY No. 875,614. PATENTBD DEC. 31, 1907.

. W. N. PARKES.

EYELET 0R EMBROIDERY STITGHING MAGHTNB.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 26,1903.

. 4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.-

LHZZ NM w w an No. 875,614. PATENTED 11130.31, 1907.

w. N. PARKES. BYELET 0R EMBROIDERY STITGHING MACHINE.

L 9 APP IGATION FILED MAY 26 1 03 4 S E TS E INVENTOR:

ATTO HEY Tocll whom it may concern: .Be 't known that I, WILLIAM N.Panxes, a citizen of the United States, residing in Brook] county ofKings, and State of New 6 York, ave invented a'new and usefulImprovement in Efyelet or Embroidery Stitch- 'mg Machines, which thefollowing is a descri tion. V

invention relates to machines in which a relative lateral movement isprodnced between the'needle and the work.

a One of the main objects of the invention is .to rovidc improved meansfor stitching an .eye et without turning the work. I It is also an.object of the invention to provide means for automatically embroider-:lng various ornamental designs, the stitches oLwhich radiate completelyaround a coma: anon center; H r

20. With the above and other objects in view, :which will be seen fromthe description and drawings, my invention consists in the parts,-:elements, and combinations hereinafter dcec hscribedand claimed. I

2& Referring to the drawings: Figure 1 shows,

' in front elevation, so much of the machine as is deemed necessary toillustrate this view of my invention; Fig. 2 shows a rear elevation r ofthe machine; Fig. 3 shows a top plan view of the machine; Fig. 4 shows aort1on of the LolOth-plate of the machine, i lustrating in 7 plan thelower clamp-plate of the workolder, and a part'of the mechanism foractu- 'g ;-.ating the same; Fig. 5 shows, in side elevau itiom-a detailillustrating the presscr-foot and tbs-upper clampplate of thework-holder; -,Fig. 6 shows in front elevation the parts of Fig. 5; Fig.7 shows, in top plan, the presser- 1;; foot of Fig. 5, the clampplatcbeing re- .=moved;-Fig. 8 is a transverse vertical secz-tion on the line-S-8 of Fig. 5; Fig. 9 is a .'-1Iront elevation of the needle-bardriving ar m l gand plate; Fig. .10 is a longitudinal section (if 051onthe line 10- 10; and Figs. 10 .to 17, lb inclusivefillustratediagrammatieally'some of.

, ("G102 designs andeyelets;whichmaybe made,

i by tlm mechanism ofmy'invention. Fig. 18 be detail showingtho mannerin which the as; -.-.opnnoction 52 is made adjustable.

'flfifptPrimarily, -I@dcsire= t.,understood that -:&Hanges may be.made-in the mechanism dnmin illustrated, which-,will enlarge the I ISpecification of Letters Patent. I y e i n-mm an In 26,1803. SerialHo.168.812.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

truss, 0F BROOKLYN, New YORK. -'antLa'r on smmomsar a'rrrcnmo momma.

Patented Dec. 31,1907.

scope and change the production of the machine, without departing frommy invention or the spirit thereof. For example, the operating cams maybe changed or altered as to their action, form, or construction;theworking osition of actuating parts of the workhold r may beautomatically changed; and the mechanism, or a part thereof, may be usedin combination with other mechanism for making buttonholes of variouskinds.

Throughout this description, I will refer to the fields from which thestitches radiate, and by said term I mean to comprehend either thecenter, or point, from which each stitch radiates, or that space oropening, no matter what its form or shape may be, from which, orrelatively to which, the stitches e).- tend outwardly into the body ofthe material or work.

In the draw s: the frame of the machine is indicate by 1, the sameincludin the usual overhanging arm cloth-plate and the head. The powersh'ait 2, as is usual, imparts to the needle-bar 3, its reciprocatingmovement in the head of the machine b any suitable means, saidneedle-bar .being carried in the needle-bar gate 3*, so as to receive avibratory movement at an angle to its reciprocating movement. A usualform of switchcam such as is used in zig zag or overseamin machines, isattached to the upper shaft 0 the machine. This switchcam and otherparts of usual construction it is not thought necessary to illustrate. Adriving arm 4, is in enga ement with the said switchcam by means oi ausual switch-cam follower (not shown), which is carried by a stud 5,attached to the upper end of the arm 4, an opening 6, being formed inthe arm of the machine to permit said engagement; The driving arm 4, iscarried b a shaft], journaled m the under side 0 the overha 'ng arm andextending transversely thereof 1mm front to rear,.see r "s. 1, 2 andl0and at rear end is provi ed with a similarjdrivmg arm 8 ,Each cfthearms 4 and 8, is' extended on opposite sides of the supporting shaft7,thus(providing means for connecting thereto an a justabledriving-plate, the one 9, being connected to the arm 4, and thepne 10being connected to'the arm The forms'ofthe driving arms 4 and not of theessence of my invention; for, it will be clear that the same may besubstantially straight, or may be formed on the arc of a circle, andsuch arcs may have the pivots 74 and 75, as their centers. Each of thedriving-plates is provided with curved slots 11, one at each end,through which extend adjusting screws 12, for the purpose of fixing Isaid plates to the respective arms in any desired position. Each of theplates 9, and 10, is carried by a support 9*, pivoted centrally to itsdriving arm, as at 9, thus permitting the adjustments suggested, and thebosses 9, hold the plates away from the supports 9. Sec Fi 10.

Each of t e' driving-plates is provided with a longitudinal, curved slot13, which are disposed in an arc of a circle about pivots 74 and 75,when the plates are in certain adjustments which will beex )lainedfurther on in this specification. Sha t 2, is provided with an eccentric14, which actuates a usual strap 16, pivoted to a bell-crank lever 17,one arm 18, of which is provided with a curved slot 19, in which isadjustably secured one end of a link 20, in any suitable manner, and theother end of which is connected to a pawlactuating arm 21, carrying atits upper end a pivoted pawl 22, which cooperates with the teeth of theratchet wheel 23, fixed to a transverse shaft 24 journaled ina bracket25, fixed in any suitable manner to the top of the overhanging arm.

The strap connection 16, comprises two parts, 14 is a band thatcompletely encircles the eccentric and is retained on the periphery ofthe same in a usual manner. In the sides of this band is located pins15', (only one of which is shown) and on said pins 1s pivoteda forkedend 16 of the connection 16, (only one rong of said fork is shown). Thepins are 0 course directly opposite each other, and there is snilicientc earance between the forked end of the )art 16 and the band 14 topermit of the sli 'lit lateral movement of the upper end of said part 16necessary for the free action of the said connection between theeccentric and the bell crank lever 17. This form of connection is notnew and applicant makes no claim to the same. Any suitable form ofconnection Ina beused between the eccentric and the bell crank lever 17.The shaft 24, has connected thereto at its front end a cam-disk 26, andat its rear end a cam disk 27. These disks 26, and 27, are grooved so asto produce the cam aths 28 and 29, respectivel The cams ormed in thesedisks are wiat are called heart shaped cams, but as is well known theseheart shaped cams may varv greatly in the movement they transmit. l nthe present form of my invention these cam grooves are so constructedthat they run from the point 24* progressively in a direction away fromthe axis of the shaft 24 until the point 24' is reached. So it will beunderstood that they transmit a progressively reciprocating movement ofa uniform speed to the parts that are in direct engagement with them.These cams are constructed to stitch or embroider the figures hereinillustrated, but it will be clearly understood when these cams and theother parts to be described that they operate are considered, that anunlimited number of different shaped cams may be inserted and used inplace of these, and the design of the embroidery or stitching therebychanged accordingly.

Suitably supported at a point in front of the shaf 24, is a stud-shaft30, carried by a bracket'31, fixed to the arm of the machine, andjournaled upon opposite ends of said stud-shaft 30, are the arms 32 and33, both extending toward the rear end of the machihc and the arm 32,carrying a stud 34, which travels in the groove 28, of the disk 26,while the arm 33, carries a stud 35, which travels in the groove'29, ofthe disk 27. The stud 34, pivotally supports a rod formed in two parts,the part 37, sliding upon the part 36, and being adjustablethereon to av extent desired by means of the thumb-screw 38, passing throu h alongitudinal slot 3!), in the part 37, and lieiug tapped into the )art36. The lower end of the part 37, of the )ar,

pivotally connects with a twopart pitman,

tends into a shoe 5) which slides in the slot 13, of said driving-plate9. The shoe 9 is constructed in a usual way, and provided with usualmeans for retaining it in the way or slot 13. 1

The stud 35, pivot-ally supports the upper end of a two-part rod, onepart 44, sliding in the other part 45, and being adjustable relativelyby means of the set-screw 46, passing through a longitudinal slot 47, inthe part 45, and tapped into the part 44. At its lower end the part 45,is pivotall connected to the forward end of a link 48', t e pivotalstud'49, extending through the part 45, and link 48, and having a shoe 0crating in the slot 13, of drivin -plate 10, in ikc manner as abovedescribed in connection with stud 43, and shoe 9*. Link 48, at 75, isivotally connectedto the lever 50, fulcrumcil at 51, on the arm of themachine. having its other end connected to an adjustable pitman )2,which at its for ward end is pivotnlly connected to the bellcrank lever53, fulcrumcd at 54, to thee-10thplate of the mac line.

r 58, said plates thus securely retaining the -work and constituting thework-holder. .--As

10 ,ball carried by the lower end of the lever .50,

$ the clamlp-plate to be removed, or slid back,

40 plate 66, is serrated at 6'7 and the flanges 68,

jviously, when the presser-bar islowered the 1 end andtheg-ebypansed-gto exerhaensiona r The pit'man 52 is provided at one endwith a ri ht hand thread and at its other end with a le t hand threadthathave seats in correspondingly threaded bores in cndpie-ces 52 6 and52". This is a usual way of making a itman ad 'ustable, and the saidends aie dcked in t eir threaded seats by usual lock nuts seen in Fig.2. vThe piece or bearing 52 .is adapted to embrace-in ausual manner aand the piece 52' is adapted in alike manner to embrace a ball carriedbyone army of the bellcranklever 53 l. The arm 55, of the bellrcrank isbifurcated l and the fork 56, thereofemhraces a block 57, ,p'ivotallysupported .on thebottom of the slide-*late57", of the'work-holder (seeFigs. 1 and 2.) Said slide-plate, supports the lowerclamp-plate 5B, ofthe work-holder and slides in ways 59, supported by the clothplate, andsuch ways confine said slide-plate and clamplate to a right-linereciprocation. The slide-p ate 57*,and clamp-plate 58','are connected,so as to move together, by means 36 of the'thumb screw 58 carried by theclampplate and extending through an open-end slot, in the slide-plate 57i, and the clamp-nut 58', screwing upon the pin 58*, and engaging theslide-plate. This. construction enables at will, t ereby providin a freeassage for the bobbin from the mac 'ne. a plate 58, at its forward end,is serratedat 60, and is provided with a needle-aperture 61. 85 Thepresser-bar 62, supports a foot 63, the

-horizontal portion of which carries anti-fric- .tion rolls 64; runningin grooves or ways 65, ,in the hp er clamp-plate 66, vof the workholder.he bottom of the upper clampafford a means b which said clamplate 66,may be retaine upon the presser-ibot and also form the oovefifi, inwhich the rolls- 5 run and where y plate 66,1is retained from 15 lateralmovement on thefoot. At its rear end the plate 66, is provided with alug or extension 69. having an. aperture therein in which is set a li htspring 7 0, fixed by a screw 71, to the shank portion of the foot 63.Ohi plate 66,will clamp the-work upon the plate 'theplate 58,.is movedthe plate 66, will co l-re e y mor andt a t m n 2. 0; w l-b :1 i n the:plate; fifinsi ic e-remm. i w; en it IS raised fromt esvorl to itsnormal position shownin Elg fi. x 1

Injthe operation oithemachine tlon of the arms 32 and 33 is to keep thethat they will befretained in thacam grooves. 65 These arms are of suchlength, and the movements transmitted from the cams so limited that theeli'ectof the movement of the studs is, atthe stitching point,substantiallythe same asit would be i the studs were, confined to movein a right line. only. It is obvious that other means might beamed forguiding the ends of the-connections 36 and fijg'tgthe cam grooves Forexample the well known means of using a. s1ideQ-for transmitting, vthemovement otthe cam could be used, but ,in .the present form of. myinvention-the ,said

arms are preferred.

I 4 v Assuming now that the drivingarm 4 has no movement, and that theplatesQ and 10 are adjusted as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, it will be seenthat the operation of the machine will cause the cam groove 28 to recirocate vertically the shoe 9 on which the end of the ,partflds pivoted,and because of the oblique position relative to the vertical of the way.13 1 v the said part 9" will move laterally as it is reeip catedfandthrough the connection bet en it and the needle the said needle will bemoved laterally. And as the cam disk 26 i is revolved from the movementof a ra'tchet/ wheel it will be readily understood that this lateralmovement of said needle will be prossive, first in one direction andthen in an osite direction. Of course the s I brief progressivereciprocating latera "move ment of the needle, may be increasedordecreased by adjusting the end of the connection20 in the way 19 fromor towards the pivotof the beli crank lever in which said we. isformed'V y referring now to the cam groove 29 and the connection. between thecame an the work carrier, it will be seen that when the machineis-operated as just described, the work carrier'will e reciprocatedprogressively at right angl to the lateral reciprocations of the needle,and it will now be understood that'means are present in this machine forproducing automatically a relative univereal movement between the needleand the work, and-as these movements are under the co'ntrol pf twopattern cams it will be seen that an endless number of different designsmay be automatically stitched. While the 116 cam ooves are, the sameininy prescntscec monste d cles amy t nt on. .:is, 1i wa t-he Path maybe iabs luta s a .d amnt or m mma s sems tell 'xe lhllllilt ii ii seislrasns ern ws Mos s-thatch?smea -he Nans'dpand,-.t at

heir st tesman -s s m r ease marc A t a-"a 'tlmloi-mk stxw'c mgwaya; 1072, ls anaperture-prov ded 1n the presserfoot for thapassage..-o.thoneedle. 2

and the plate 9 is so adjusted that the groove studs 34 and3 in theirproper position so 13 is concentric with the pivot 74 when the 25 positsside of the same, an

- '60 to the vibrations 6. these parts are m vibration of 36 end of theconnection 48 is ack of t produced. in the needle,

' upper end of the said arm is in its extreme position toward theneedle, or in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 1, the needlewill always be in the same position when moved in this direction so longas the end of theconnection 41 is above the pivot of the arm 4. It willbe understood that when the parts are so adjusted all of the increaseand decrease in the lateral the needle will be on the right side of are-determined oint, when the end of sairfconr action is a ove said ivot,and of course when the said end is elow said pivot all of said increasewill be on 16 the other side of said pivot. It is to be observed thathere are means for increasing outwardly from a central point in onedirection the extent'of the lateral vibration of the needle, and thendecreasing towards said central oint the lateral vibration of saidneedle unt' said central point is reached again, when no lateralvibration of the needle takes place, and then increasing thesaid lateralvibration from said central oiiit to the op- (i then again decreasingsaid lateral vibration ofsaid needle until said central point is reachedagain.

Assuming now that the plate 10 is adjusted so that the segment way 13formed therein is concentric with the pivot 75 when the upper end of thearm 8 is in its extreme lateral position toward the rear end of thmachine, it will be seen that the work carrier will always be in thesame position when the directly over the pivotof the arm 8, and thatwhen said con nection is moved above said pivot, the work carrier willbe vibrated from this central int or osition in a direction towards thelie machine, or from the operator.

And as the movement of the end of said connection 48 continues in thisdirection the vibration of the work carrier will increase from its saidcentral position towards the back of 46 the machine. And of course whenthe re verse movement takes place this vibratory 'movement of the workcarrier will decrease until the end of the connection 48 is over thepivot of the,arm 8. Then as the end of said connection moves below thepivot of said le-- ver 8 the vibratory movement of said work carrierincreases on the opposite side of said central position, and then whenthe reverse movement takes place it decreases towards a said centralposition. It is thus seen that the same movements are produced in the"work carrier, under these ad ustments, as are but that the vibracarrierare at right angles of the needle. Thus it is seen that means areprovided here for pro during a relative universal vibrato movementbetween the needle and the wo rli. And

' tions of the work amen it is to be observed that by the use 0t thismovement stitches may be made to radiate out in any direction. from agiven center, or around a iven field.

In malilng round eyelets in which the stitches radiate out from a centerpoint such .for example as is indicated in Fig. 12, the movements of theneedle and the work carrier are as above described. The parts areadjusted to make this evelet s that as the vibratorv movement of theneedle decreases, the vibratory movement of the work carrier increasesproportionately and outwardly from the common center of action of theneedle and the work carrier, and this relative movement takes placeduring the making of stitches around one quarter of the eyelet or sayfrom a to b in Fig. 12. W hen this po nt has been reached the cnd of theconnection 41 will be over the pivot of the lever 4, and the end of theconnection 48 will be in its extreme osition below the pivot of thearm'8. New t e reverse movement commences and the vibratory movement ofthe work carrier is decreased, and of the needle increased until the endof the connection 48 is over the pi vot of the arm 8, and the end of theconnection .41 in its extreme position below the mvot of the arm 4, whenthe stitching will be at c in said Fig. 12. And from this point themovements are reversed again until (I is reached, and then they are aain reversed until the start' point a has een reached when the e elet iscom leted.

The designs indicated in Figs. 12 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, are all made byt 0 same mechanism herein illustrated, and without changing the shape ofthe cams. And other adjustments may be made, and other designs therebreduced. The open fields in the center of d signs 13 and 14 are producedby adjusting the plates 9 and 10 laterally so the vibrations of theneedle and the work carrier do not extend to the centcrpf the desi Thedifference in these designs is pr need by changing the relat vepositions cf the plates. The designs indicated in Figs. 15 and 16 areproduced by ad usting the working position of the ends of theconnections 41 and 48 so the work relative more to one side than the oter of the pivots of the arms 4 and 8. The working positions of theseparts may be ad mated by means of the thumb nut 38, and the thumb nut46.

'Other' variation may be made in the designs stitched, by other ad;ustments in the mechanism. For example the angular position of one ofthe cams relative to the other may be changed by means of the screwsthat secure said cams to their shafts, see ig. 3. And it is obvious thatan change in the relative angular positions 0 these came will change theshape of the design stitched. It

amen

' is thus seen that there is a wide scope in'this machine withoutchanging the shape of the cams, but it is to be understood that bychangin the shape of said cams there is practically no limit to thenumber of different designs that may be stitched or embroidered..

It is of course clear from the foregoing description, that the ratchetwheel 23 is the common actuator by means of which the mechanism thatacts to vary the extent of the vibrations of the needle, and of the workholder is operated. And it is of course also clear that the camsoperated the said b -ratchet wheel produce the desire chan e in theextent of the lateral vibrations o the needle and of the work holder orcarrier. It is also understood that the spacing of the stitches aroundthe desi n is secured by changing the extent of the stroke of theactuating pawl 22.

Figs. 10 and 11, illustrate two of many desi which may be produced bychanging the orm of the cam-pat employed in formin the designs of theother figures.

aving thus described my invention what I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent is:

1. In a sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needlethat reciprocates in the direction of its length, a nonrotative workholder, a vibrating part acting upon one of these elements to producerelative movements between them in one direction, a second vibratingpart acting upon one of these elements to produce relative movementsbetween these parts in adirection at right angles to that given by thefirst-mentioned vibrating part, means for operating the vibrating partsto chan e the movements of the same to produce re ative movementsbetween the needle and work holder radially completely around a givencenter there by stitching an eyelet without turning the I work.

2. A sewing machine comprising a recip rocating and laterally vibratingneedle, a work holder vibrating at right angles to the direction inwhich said needle vibrates, means for vibrating said needle and workholder, and means for automatically changthe movements of the same toproduce r dfative movements between the needle and work holder radiallycompletely around a given center.

3. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibratingneedle, a reciprocating work holder confined to move in a right line atright angles to the direction in which said needle vibrates, means forvibrating said needle and work holder, and means for automaticallychanging the movements of the same to produce relative movements betweenthe needle and work holder" right angles to the lateral movements ofsaid;

needle, and means for automatically ch in the movements of the needleand wor older, means for viho der to produce relative movements of a'uniform extent between the same radially completely around a givencenter.

A sewing machine comp a reciprocating and laterally moving need 0, awork holder that reciprocate-s at ri ht angles to the direction in whichsaid nee e moves laterally, and a ratchet operated mechanism-for changirrelatively the lateral movements of said nee e and the reciprocatimovements of said work holder to pro uce relative movements between thesame radially c/Jmpletely around a given center.

6. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterallyvibrating-needle, a

work holder that 'reciprocates at right angles to the direction in whichsaid needle vibrates, and means for changing relatively the movements ofsaid needle and work holder to produce relative movements between thesame of varying extent radially completely around a given center.

7. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibratingneedle, a work holder that vibrates at right angles to the direction inwhich said needle vibrates, means for changing relative] the vibratorymovements of said needle an work holder to produce relative movementsbetween the same radially com letely around a given can ter, and meansor changing laterally the working position of one of said elements.

8. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibratingneedle, a work holder that vibrates at right a les tothe direction inwhich said needle vi rates, means for changing relatively the vibratorymovements of said needle and-work holder to produce relative movementsbetween the same radially com' letely around a given conter, and meansor changing laterally tinworking position of said needle andworE holder.

9. In a sewing machine, a needle that reciprocates in the direction ofits length, a work holder, an oscillating lever that 1s pivotedintermediate its ends, an auxiliary 1 plate adjustably mounted on saidlever and a sliding part mounted on said plate, a connection betweensaid sliding part'and the needle a second oscillating lever that ispivoted intermediate its ends, an auxiliary plate mounted adjustably onsaid second oscillat- J35 ing lever, a sliding part mounted on saidplate, a connection between said sliding part i and the work holder, anda ratchet operated I mechanism for operating said sliding parts i toproduce relative movements betweentlie needle and the work holderradially c0rnpletely around a given center.

10. A sewing machine comprising a recipmeeting and laterally vibratingneedle, a work holder vibrating at right angles to the direction inwhich said needle vibrates, means for vibrating said needle and work 5holder; and means for automatically chenging the movements of same toproduce rela- 1 tire movements between the needle and work holderradially completely around a given center comprising two cams one ofwhich controls the action of the needle vibrating means and the otherthe action of the work holder vibrating means.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

WHLIAM N. PARKES.

Witnesses:

CHAS. McC. CHAPMAN, M. B. HOARE.

